100% nano titanium dioxide, unauthorised, in the glitter cosmetics we tested

AVICENN is publishing today its investigative report “Searching for [nanos] in glitter cosmetics”: the 10 glitter cosmetics we had tested contain very large quantities of unauthorized and particularly small nanoparticles of titanium dioxide (TiO2), potentially dangerous to health. Thanks to highly advanced analyses and images of unprecedented precision, our tests clearly show TiO2 nanoparticles detached from the mica sheets, which are visibly cracked, crumbling or even broken, releasing nanoparticles that can be inhaled and cause adverse effects in the event of repeated exposure. The French National Health and Safety Agency (ANSES) has begun working on this issue, following a decision by the Ministry of Health, to whom we communicated our results.

TiO2 particles, 100% nano, in all 10 products tested

Intrigued by the results of its previous tests from 2022, AVICENN commissioned ten additional laboratory tests, this time focusing exclusively on glitter cosmetics.

In all the products, the laboratory found a very large quantity of titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles, that are unauthorized— and particularly small.

These TiO2 particles mostly measure between approximately 25 and 50 nanometers, and are even more numerous and smaller than those found in many matte make-up products or sunscreens: 100% of them are smaller than 100 nm.

It is this small size that gives them their particular shine, that sought-after iridescent effect… and that also, unfortunately, makes them potentially dangerous to health.

These tiny nanoparticles are even more likely to penetrate deep into the lungs, where they can cause inflammation (9 out of the 10 products tested are sprays or powders, and therefore inhalable).

Nanoparticles detach from mica…

Suppliers, cosmetics federations and companies argue that these particles are attached to larger mica plates, that they comply with regulations and are safe. AVICENN would like to be just as sure… but by investigating these pearlescent pigments more closely, we have gathered evidence that strongly challenges this line of argument.

Indeed thanks to highly advanced analyses and images of unprecedented precision, our tests clearly show TiO2 nanoparticles detached from mica plates, which are visibly cracked, crumbling or even broken, releasing nanoparticles.

…and do not appear to be coated

Another worrying finding: unlike those used in sunscreens, these TiO2 nanoparticles do not appear to be coated. This raises concerns that they may be capable of generating free radicals, which can cause DNA damage.

The French Ministry of Health has decided to refer the matter to ANSES

We sent our results to the French Ministry of Health, which considered them sufficiently worrying to decide to refer the issue to the French National Health and Safety Agency (ANSES).

AVICENN welcomes this decision, as many products are concerned and the analyses carried out demonstrate the urgency of addressing this public health issue: a very large number of people inhale these TiO2 nanoparticles every day:

  • consumers when applying the products;
  • workers in the cosmetics supply chain when handling them at production and processing sites;
  • staff in cosmetic retail outlets (sales assistants when promoting these products to customers, sometimes with demonstrations involving spraying the products in the confined air of stores; security guards who also breathe this same air)
  • dancers and other performing arts professionals,
  • etc.

An assessment is also needed at European level

AVICENN has just contacted the European Commission and the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), as the European level is essential when it comes to authorization.

Without waiting for the results of these procedures, AVICENN calls on all stakehloders in the cosmetics industry to urgently examine these pearlescent ingredients and our findings, in order to take the necessary measures in terms of:

  • risk assessment,
  • consumer and worker information and safety for those who use, handle and breathe these products.

To be continued…


They talk about our study:

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