Unauthorized or unlabeled nanos: over 80% of non-compliance in cosmetics

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The DGCCRF (General Division of Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control) has published the results of 38 “nano” analyses carried out on cosmetic ingredients and products in 2020:

– Out of 11 ingredients sampled and declared as “non-nano” by the ingredient suppliers, 9 were identified as nanomaterials upon analysis (i.e. 82%); the professionals concerned were asked to comply.

– Of the 27 finished products sampled (mainly make-up and suncare products), 24 contained nanomaterials identified in the analysis but only one complied with the provisions relating to the presence of nanomaterials, bringing the non-compliance rate to 85%.

> In six sunscreen products, authorized UV filters were found but were not labeled [nano] in the list of ingredients.

> The remaining non-compliances were mainly related to make-up products containing unauthorized colorants.

These results concern companies of all sizes, from SMEs to multinationals. This investigation has resulted in labeling changes and voluntary market withdrawals. When professionals do not implement voluntary compliance actions, market withdrawals can be imposed by prefectural order. “The sector of suppliers of ingredients and manufacturers of cosmetics appeared to be insufficiently aware of the problem of nanomaterials,” concludes the DGCCRF. “Professionals do not always implement the analyses necessary to detect them and too often rely on insufficient technical documentation.” In short, there is still work to be done…

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